On our way back to town, we enthused over the idea of cycling to Angkor Wat. Watching the sun rise above this majestic temple would be an experience like never before. Almost sounding like we were some breed of intrepid explorers, there was however a slight problem to reckon with first. Unfortunately the Indian fellow had difficulty keeping balance and though we practiced for a fair bit, his cycling skills did not improve dramatically.
Waking up at an unearthly half four in the morning, unbelievably we were already on the move within thirty minutes. The Indian fellow was cycling better than the previous day, but he lagged behind and at times lost balance veering dangerously to the middle of the road. At one point the Danish woman told me to wait while she cycles back to have a word. Cycling over, she told me they agreed we can carry on to Angkor Wat and reunite when he arrives. Suggesting locking up the bicycles right there and hop in a tuk-tuk altogether, she dismissed the idea swiftly pedalling away.
In the distance, a faint streak of red light signalled the crack of dawn, instinctively inducing us to push harder to get there in time. Arriving at Angkor Wat out of breath and dripping in sweat, exposed my levels of fitness or rather the lack of. Astonishingly no sooner than we had reached the grounds of Angkor Wat, the Indian fellow turned up right where we had just locked the bicycles. Spluttering off in a cloud of dust, apparently he hopped on a tuk-tuk, lugged the bicycle onboard and told the driver to drop him off at Angkor Wat. Amused by his lateral thinking abilities, at least no one felt at fault for disbanding earlier on.
The majority of people turning up by moto-taxis, tuk-tuks and the bus-loads, dashed to watch sunrise from inside the temple’s grounds. Choosing to stay outside by the moat, the atmosphere was calm and the view better than expected. Darkness dissolving gradually, the day proved to be rather dull and grey. A clearing in the midst of the clouds however was enough for the first rays to sift through casting a smouldering glow over the main temple.
An exodus of people flowed out right after sunrise and for this reason we waited a little longer until we went inside. As we walked down the outer causeway, one could only imagine the pomposity and extravagance through which the king, clad in fine silks, flanked by dignitaries and servants, must have marched along this path.
From the edge of the inner causeway, the silhouetted towers of Angkor Wat resembled the petals of a lotus flower blossoming out of a serene emerald pond. Words could not portray how it felt to be in the presence of this imposing structure. Combining art with religious fervour, Angkor Wat, built by Suryavarman II, epitomizes Khmer culture in its highest form. Wandering down long corridors adorned with elaborated carvings of Hindu myths and accounts of actual battles fought by the Khmers, made two hours fly like five minutes.
At the top of a steep life-threatening flight of stairs, reached from within one of the internal courtyards, the upper tier lead to a terrace having a sublime, blissful view of the temple grounds below and as far as the eye could see. In no rush to endeavour back down, I lingered on awestruck by one of the most unique places on earth.
Throughout the complex, it was nice to see a good number of Cambodians from various parts of the country most of whom were on a sort of pilgrimage to Angkor. Generally having a warm and friendly nature, some exchanged small talk as we toddled leisurely around. The people we spoke with were understandably proud they have such an iconic treasure, yet only too happy to know how interesting and exciting we found the whole experience at Angkor.
Deciding to head back to the Bou Savy for lunch and siesta, we agreed to return in the afternoon to watch sunset. Meeting up again at around four, we felt a bit adventurous now that the Indian fellow cycled confidently. We took a wrong turn on the outskirts of town however ending some way off track. Nonetheless we made it on time for sunset, which was disappointingly a non-event. All the same the chance to wind down amid this awesome setting was not going to be passed up.
Relieved we were going to visit the temples by tuk-tuk, I was willing to surrender some sleep and rise again at half four. Arriving fresh and comfortably in time for sunrise, we were thrilled that on our final lap at Angkor the day shone fair and bright.
The first rays of the sun radiating on the clouds, creating a kaleidoscopic sky of purple, red and orange, was the most fitting backdrop complimenting the opulence of Angkor Wat. It was the kind of sunrise leaving you with long-lasting memories.
Stopping over at Bayon, the few people in the temple were for the most part Cambodians. In the stillness and quietude of the early morning hours, Avalokiteshvara seemed to come into life and on the verge of shedding light on Bayon’s magnitude and importance. Taking most of my pictures on the first day, I roamed freely without the desire to take any more, letting Bayon reveal itself the way it should.
Attracting fewer visitors, but by no means less spectacular, Preah Khan is also one of the larger temples in Angkor. Known for the long narrow cruciform corridors, it is believed Jayavarman VII used this complex as a temporary seat while Angkor Thom was being built. Likewise, Preah Khan’s entrance is paved with a depiction of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, sadly the version here is extensively damaged. In contrast, the intricate carvings and lichen-clad stonework are in a good state of preservation bequeathing the temple with enough appeal for a worthwhile stopover.
Dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva, the diminutive complex of Banteay Srei located some 30km from Siem Reap is along with Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm one of the definite must see temples. It was just as fortunate we did not have to cycle this long a way. Built from stone of an almost orange hue, Banteay Srei meaning “Citadel of the Women” owes its name to the delicate carvings purportedly completed by the skilled hands of a woman. Small in size but immense in detail, it is with no coincidence that Banteay Srei is considered a “jewel of Khmer art” marvelled daily by throngs of visitors.
Avoiding the scorching hot afternoon, we returned to our guesthouse for lunch, arranging a revisit to Angkor Wat at sunset right after a deserving siesta. Known to attract huge crowds hell-bent on snapping the perfect sunset over Angkor Wat, we steered clear from the hordes jostling around the temple of Phnom Bakheng and dropped by our preferred corner at the moat.
And as the sun set, our circuit around Angkor came to a pleasantly soothing end. Sure there were many other temples we could have visited, but I don’t think it could have turned out any better than it actually did. Credit in great part to the brilliant company I was with, never feeling pressured to stomp around just to say “been there done that”. Three days are enough to sample the highlights. If time and money are not an issue, then a weekly pass is the best option. Either way it’s fair to say that a trip to Cambodia is not complete until you have stared in fascination by the greatest of them all…..Angkor Wat.
